Still Raising the Glass for Rhone Style Reds Seattle Times 06/22/2005 Paul Gregutt

Still raising the glass for Rh?style redsBy Paul Gregutt -- Special to The Seattle TimesIf we didn't have Doug McCrea making wine in Washington, we'd have to invent him. No one has been more focused or tireless when it comes to exploring wines made from Rhone Valley varietals.And now that it seems half the winemakers in the state have jumped on the Syrah bandwagon, McCrea, who planted some of the very first Washington Syrah 15 years ago, remains way out in front of the pack, making such unusual varietal bottlings as Roussanne, Counoise and Mourv?e.When I sat down with him some years ago to talk Syrah, McCrea enthusiastically spoke of its "animal side":"Some people call it gamey, some call it road kill," he said, explaining that in his estimation, those animal aromas, combined with an earthy element, add olfactory appeal to the natural juicy robustness of the grape.McCrea has been making five different Syrahs for some years now, and each is designed to express a different style: Australian shiraz, French C?R?, straight-ahead Washington, etc. He owns no vineyards but sources his fruit from great sites on Red Mountain, the Yakima Valley and Horse Heaven Hills.McCrea made a bold, buttery chardonnay for many years, but quit after 2002 to focus exclusively on Rhone whites to complement the reds. His Viognier and Roussanne are flavorful, appealing wines, though it is McCrea's red wines that deservedly command center stage.In 1999, he cajoled Jim Holmes into planting Mourv?e and Counoise at Ciel du Cheval on Red Mountain. The intent was to use them primarily in McCrea's southern Rhone-styled "Sirocco" blend. But in 2002 and again in 2003, he also bottled them as separate varietals, creating unique wines that offer consumers a rare chance to taste these two grapes straight up (almost ? a bit of Syrah is blended into each).Made in limited quantities, the 2003 McCrea Mourv?e and 2003 McCrea Counoise are available at a few select wine shops for $28. The Mourv?e is a forward, fruity, spicy/sweet red wine with plenty of charm. Flavors of berry pie, cracker and vanilla cream swirl through the mouth; it's a bit like drinking pie. The Counoise is more jagged but also more interesting, showing tart pie-cherry fruit and a long, tangy finish.Pick of the week McCrea Cellars 2003 Syrah ($25):Give this wine a good airing ? decanting if possible, or at least a vigorous swirl in the glass. As it slowly opens, it reveals tart red fruits with plenty of pucker; lots of acid and tannin; and some tarry, rubbery, reductive notes. It's a young wine that delivers a lot of flavor for the price.Other recommended wines McCrea Cellars 2004 Roussanne ($22): Plump, juicy and packed with flavors of peach, lime, pears and Red Delicious apples.McCrea Cellars 2003 "Amerique" Syrah ($40): The fruit is from Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval on Red Mountain. McCrea's Amerique bottling aims for an Australian shiraz style, with lots of vanilla cookie scents from the American oak barrels.Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.